dimanche 2 octobre 2016

A Field Guide to Getting Lost in Jakarta

While not being known for its natural exploration activities most people expect from Indonesia, Jakarta is—at least for me—packed with just the right dose of culture, galleries, museums, and delicacies we might as well try. Always pretending to be a tourist in my own city, Jakarta never ceases to surprise me. When you first land your feet in here, the unstable heartbeat of the city, the never-ending honks, the hustle and bustle; they probably turn you off. But just slow your pace, and afoot and lighthearted, follow the rhythm. You can find peace too among its crowdedness.

I am disoriented. That means I have low spatial intelligence: I hardly remember faces, shapes, and streets. It takes me one week in general to memorize my route back home from a fixed location. I can’t read maps either. But here’s the deal: I love solo traveling. I love getting lost and discovering something new and something old hidden from plain view. As much as I love trace back history and the same effective road, it doesn’t bother me that I have to search a way to crawl out from the maze of disorientation.  When you solo travel, you’re utterly alone in a space full of people, and it automatically forces you to save a room for interaction with strangers. But it’s okay, I promise you. You can be on your own pace, you don’t have to compromise to your travel buddy’s needs since there is none, you’re completely free. You embrace the sense of being your own man. Solo travel is my way to heal and regenerate.

Anyway….

Truth is a virtue, so I am going to be upfront about it: road sign is a galore to find in Jakarta, especially when you travel in less-known area framed in smaller streets. Getting lost in Jakarta is normal. The key is to ask locals along the way. Indonesian people are known for their easy going and sociable nature, so take a deep breath and just ask.

Getting lost in Jakarta can be fun, too. There are some places you can wander, places in road less traveled by, places so good to get lost. Since some places are close to one another, I put them into routes and make some categorization.

P. S. The places mentioned below are based on my personal rating, so please browse further since I can’t guarantee my taste suits yours.

ROUTE #01
For the old-fashioned

Just because you’re old fashioned doesn’t mean these places are obsolete on your Instagram feeds. In fact, for me these places are among the most massive, historic, and beautiful landmarks in the city. Welcome to Kota Tua or Old Quarter of Jakarta!

Let’s begin this route!

Bicycle rent on the square
Museum Bank Indonesia














You can start from these four of either one of them: Museum Bank Indonesia (recaps Indonesian economy through ages, the building is white and has colonial feels, rooms inside have AC and full of pretty lamplights—highly Instagrammable), Museum Fatahillah (it has random and not-well-managed-collections but it’s spacey and pretty with nice garden and statuettes; if you’re photograph nerd, you’ll find a safe haven within its plant fences, marble streets, and wide-opened windows), Museum Wayang (will give you much more cheer because here you can meet hundreds of traditional Indonesian dolls), or Museum Seni Rupa dan Keramik (if you’re into arts and want to know how arts developed in Indonesia). The latest three are part of this one big square where people gather, ride bicycle, or feed stray doves. You can also get some tattoos (permanent or temporary) or pose with vintage cars. But beware to bring cap since the heat can cause demotivation in you to explore more!

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Pelabuhan Sunda Kelapa
Source: pegipegi.com

After you explore and sweat, don’t forget to buy Indonesian traditional drink such as selendang mayang or es goyang to freshen you up a bit. When you’re ready, come and get the sunset at Pelabuhan Sunda Kelapa. It’s an old harbor located around 20 minutes walk from the Old Quarter, and the scene where gigantic ships park is somehow so magical it awakes the awe in you. You will pass a bridge namely Jembatan Intan, which is, supposedly, another historical landmark, but I’m pretty sure the stinky smell won’t draw you in much longer than necessary. After you’re done with your aesthetic (or narcissistic) session around the harbor, and if you’re really into museum, you can also visit Museum Bahari, which, in a nutshell, contains the history of Indonesian maritime quests.

And, that’s the first route!

GENERAL INFORMATION
How to get there: the location of this route is really strategic since there are both TransJakarta Kota shelter and Jakarta-Kota train station. Good news: both of them are final stop so you won’t miss it or be busy checking the name of previous stops.
Estimated time you will spend: three hours at minimum.
Estimated cost: for transportation and museum tickets only, I recommend you to bring Rp40.000 at the very least.
Life hacks:
  • Take care of your belongings and watch out for pickpockets
  • Decide exactly the time you want to arrive, since Jakarta traffic is horrendous
  • TransJakarta ticket can be used as CommuterLine (train) ticket, but not other way around. But, keep in mind, you can only commute using the CommuterLine if the balance in your ticket is Rp12.000 at the minimum
  • Always, always bring cap and wear sunblock!
  • Sneakers will be comfortable. Highly recommended not to wear heels


ROUTE #02
For the landmark-seeker

The top observation deck of Monas

Outside the gate of Monas
You will find all the skyscraping monuments on postcards your Indonesian friend sent you, here along this route.  I usually begin this route at Galeri Nasional for efficiency matters. GalNas is art gallery, it has this main building for seasonal display and two other buildings for monthly display (usually for competition) and themed display (usually it shows works of one artist).  I visit this site at least once every two months and it never bores me.  After pampering your eyes with this pretty gallery, wander aimlessly to Monumen Nasional, around fifteen minutes walk from GalNas. Here’s the dilemma: Monas is so pretty at night, with its light pollution and its shades, but you can only visit it in afternoon if you want to see Jakarta landscape from the top of Monas (because the elevator that serves this business only operates until 5 pm, if I’m not mistaken), or if you want to do the famous jump shoot. There’s an underground museum in Monas, and to get there you will have to find the main gate (which is a lil bit tricky) that connects to this underground tunnel. If you want to reach the top deck, prepare yourself for the long queue because there’s only one elevator.

View from the observation deck
of Monas

The art piece of Galnas














Galnas is exactly this cool!

Now, you’re tired from walking. Time to calm yourself at either or both: the Istiqlal Mosque and Katedral Church (it was named that way, don’t ask me). These two are so big people with different religions and nonbelievers come anyway. They are located facing one another, which is very amusing and stressing how Indonesian live in peace with its diversity.

Ragusa foods and ice creams!
After you recharge, stop a bajaj (Google it!) or ojek to transport you to Ragusa, a vintage ice cream parlor famous for its traditional Italian recipe. Walking there from Istiqlal/Katedral can be exhausting. Anyway, if you prefer coffee than ice cream, I suggest you to enter Newseum Café in the same neighborhood. Finding this place can be problematic since you won’t find a website on Google. Newseum is small and with dim light, from the outside it’s glowing bright red with stacks of books that welcome you. When I visited, this place was about to close, so I can’t taste the coffee, but one customer service took pity on me and explained that Newseum was neither a bookstore (which was my first thought I sounded to her) or museum. She let me wander around for some minutes, explained more as we went, “Sometimes we also held a small forum, discussing politics or other topics, or small live music concert, or book launch, or art exhibition. It depends on your luck, really.” I gathered the information and made small note: this place was meant for the intellectuals, just like cafes-philo in Paris. What amazed me that night, however, was when she told me, “Newseum used to be Le Chat Noir, a club where you can meet Westerling the butcherer, or Mata Hari the secret agent.” I never, ever, felt so lucky to find a place and never, ever, felt so unlucky for my disability exploring more. If you’re determined to visit, this place closes at 8 pm. Good luck!

GENERAL INFORMATION
How to get there: depends on your first stop, really. If you mean to visit Ragusa or Newseum, you can stop at Juanda train station (it’s on the Jakarta-Kota line, not Tanah Abang-Duri or Jatinegara). If Monas is the first place that comes to your mind, stop at Monumen Nasional TransJakarta shelter. If you stick to this route, stop at Harmoni Central shelter, then move to another line which includes Gambir shelter in it (I forget which line, sorry).
Estimated time you will spend: prepare at least one free day if you want to satisfy yourself!
Estimated cost: bring at least Rp60.000 if you want to taste the coffee or ice cream.
Life hacks: it’s advised to wear appropriate clothes (long trousers, sleeved top) if you want to visit the holy places like Katedral and Istiqlal. The rest, you can cheat from the first route.


ROUTE #03
For the morbid

“Two roads diverged in a yellow road… and I—I took the one less traveled by…”

… and that makes you a morbid! And that makes this route perfect for you! 

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Source: nyunyu.com
Just one hop from the Cikini train station, and you arrive at Pasar Surabaya. The name was given because the streets where antiques merchants sell their products is located on Jalan Surabaya. I always passed this market for one week straight last summer, en route from the train station to SDN Menteng 03 where I taught. On the fourth day, I visited this market but couldn’t make it to the end of street due to the hot weather. Their collections vary, from compass to wooden lamp to rocking chair and everything stainless steel. Not many people visit this site, which is a pity, but one seller told me the majority of visitors came from foreign nationalities, thanks to its location near elite neighborhood and international offices.

From this street, you can either walk (because you just have to walk straight) or grab an ojek (recommended) to move to Taman Suropati. This park is a beauty in the morning, and often used as a site for some photography communities to practice. In the afternoon, though, the heat can stroke you literally. There are some arts installations whose name I forget, but they are not very special. If the god of time blesses you, there will be a concert or exhibition in this park, so better check the time! But if this park doesn’t spark an interest in you, feel free to skip this to Galeri Seni Kunstkring. It only has one floor, located above a restaurant, and the collections are limited, but worth visiting if you call yourself a morbid. I was lucky to visit this gallery once because when I was about to visit for the second time, Google informed me this gallery only opens for one hour everyday, from 11 am-12 pm. (My plan was ruined but well, that was quiet an information.) I never checked the reliability of this information, though. Anyway, when I visited this place, there was a sign to not take photographs, so get ready to hide your camera.

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Source: Tribunnews.com
Now, you’re curious. What is the next place suitable for your abnormality? It’s Planetarium, for I know how much you care about otherworldly happenings. Again, if you’re lucky, you can watch planetary transition every once in a while, or a birth or death of a star, on some kind of observatory rooftop with telescope that will make you feel cool. The time to do this kind of thing, however, is usually around 6-7 pm. And if you’re luckier than ever, you can also visit Taman Ismail Marzuki for there’s often artistic events.

GENERAL INFORMATION
How to get there: train (stop at Cikini station—on the Jakarta-Kota line) is really advisable.
Estimated time you will spend: around four hours, because, believe me, these places are so interesting!
Estimated cost: it really depends on the events you want to see, or antiques you want to buy. But for the transportation and tickets, bring Rp50.000 is recommended.
Life hacks: wear clothes from light garments that will make it easier for you to move, and please wear trouser, since skirts and dresses are uncomfortable to wear on ojek.


ROUTE #04
For the want-it-all

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Pasar Seni Ancol
Source: panduanjakarta.co.id
Nothing ever comes in complete package, once somebody told me. But I guess that’s not true, considering this one route. Taman Impian Jaya Ancol or better internationally known as Ancol 
Dreamworld perhaps has it all: local beach, Dufan (Indonesian version of Disneyland and Universal Studio—now you get an idea), Pasar Seni Ancol (arts market where people sell sculpture and make a cool, framed silhouette for you), Atlantis (swimming park with many attractions), and SeaWorld (aquarium). To commute from one place to another, you can easily use the shuttle bus that operates as long as these places open. But it comes in such a long time and is always full.

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Dufan!
Source: infojalanjalan.com
GENERAL INFORMATION
How to get there: train (stop at Jakarta-Kota station) is ultimately recommended, since it can take you three hours using TransJakarta. From the station, you can continue your journey using Uber, GrabCar, or GoCar, the fare is usually Rp10.000 only. You’re welcome.
Estimated time you will spend: better prepare all day long! Dufan, especially, will make you do fun.
Estimated cost: Dufan is expensive, it costed me Rp270.000 the last time I went there. Atlantis and SeaWorld are not cheap either. If you want to visit all the sites in the block, I recommend you to bring no less than Rp500.000. if you’re determined to buy art products from Pasar Seni, then it’s Rp700.000.
Life hacks: wear shorts, tees, sneakers, and cap, bring small towel and substitute clothes since some attractions can get you wet. Also, bring mineral water! Eat at McDonnald’s since local restaurants are stupidly pricey (at least for me and compared to other restaurants). Finally, bring your whole squad! The more, the merrier! Woo hoo!

All in all….

Before mapping your itinerary, it’s important for you to know these pro-tips!
  • Some Indonesian people are opportunistic and take advantage of you if you’re foreigner. Therefore, learn to bargain hard and try to Google normal prices before getting everything
  • Getting around using taxi or bus can be painful if you’re not used to traffic. Therefore, download Gojek, Grab, or Uber, so you can use motorcycle that will help you to move faster.
  • Indonesian foods can be spicy for your taste bud if you’re not used to it, so perhaps you can avoid any food that contains “sambal”.
  • If you wear a duffel bag, move it to the front side of your body so it will reduce of possibility of you being pickpocketed.
  • Some transportation service (train, TransJakarta), big restaurants, toll, and minimarket such as Alfamart and Indomaret receives payment with Mandiri e-money or BCA Flash card. It will be helpful if you have either. Google further to know their full services.

Of course, interesting places in Jakarta are not limited to the ones mentioned above. I was just listing places that are closely located, and places I have ever been before. So if you’re asking me, “Do you think Museum Proklamasi or Lubang Buaya is worth visited?” I can’t give you the answer since I’ve never been there before! For me it’s important to keep both my honesty and subjectivity.

Happy sailing, happy exploring! Let’s get lost!